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History
Tambunan has a long history though little is known about prehistoric
times. Closer to the advent of the British the Tambunan Dusun
people, still scattered over 70 villages in this vast and fertile
valley between the Crocker and Trus Madi Ranges
lived
a little by
outsiders disturbed life. They planted rice along the river in
'wet-rice fields' and were hunters and gatherers, and indulged in
the occasional head hunting which seems to have been, back then, a
widespread and popular sport in Borneo. The Tambunan Dusun, however,
did not practise headhunting as a sport, but rather took the heads
of those who disturbed their Shangri-la. Or so they claim.
With the advent of
the British came missionaries and they soon found scenic Tambunan
with its agreeable climate. At an average of a 1000 m a.s.l. this
place was arguably not as hot as the coastal plains and the
missionaries did some serious work. The
Dusun are traditionally animists with their own genesis and one god
(who, for practical reasons as everybody will understand, is
married), and shamans, generally female, who maintained harmony
between the living, the spirits and the astral world. The
shamans, called Bobolizan were also expert
healers and mid-wives, besides being wife
and mother. To-day, there are no more shamans in Tambunan,
and virtually nobody who knows anything about traditional healing
plants. But then there is also precariously little rainforest left
which could yield those healing plants. Instead, in the small town
of Tambunan there are a couple of pharmacies and a dispensary
distributing for all sorts of aches 'Panadol'...
Under pre-colonial rule Tambunan was not
accessible by road as it is to-day, but there was a well frequented
'salt trail' linking the coast with the interior. Then, it took some
three to five days to reach this place. Communication was a little
improved when the British had bridle trails established, on which
one could travel with a pony (or 'two men abreast'), and rest houses
along the trail.
The Tambunan Dusun are expert craftsmen
with bamboo, something that has survived until now. Then, virtually
everything was made from bamboo: house floors, walls and roofs,
drinking cups, water carriers, flutes and other toys, certain knives
(for example for cutting the umbilical cord), fish traps and other
animal traps, chicken coops, baskets, bridges, of course also
drinking straws for Tambunan's famous siopon (rice wine in jars) and
much more. Under colonial rule the Tambunan people had to plant 20
bamboo sprouts for every bamboo cut and to-day the slopes of the
surrounding hills are covered in thick bamboo forests.
To-day Tambunan Town is still very small
and laid back, the people extremely friendly and seemingly never in
a hurry. Parties here are still celebrated with much gusto and
without any consideration for to-morrow - why not simply add another
day partying! Of course, siopon 'flows' liberally during any
celebration and everybody is heartily invited to join.
The Tambunan sports complex just outside
town, with its impressive grand stand, easily takes up more space
than the actual town...
Places of Interest in Tambunan
Tambunan as we know it to-day was built sometime in the
1980's and as such there is really nothing that would interest the
traveller. Again, it is in the surroundings that one finds a couple
of interesting historical and other sites, and of course the people
are simply fantastic! If you have time the journey from KK to
Tambunan with its dramatic landscapes is worth while. You travel
over the Crocker Range and into the scenic valley of Tambunan with
its terraced rice fields, and along the way there is the
Tambunan Rafflesia Conservation Area where one has good
chances to see those rare, but largest, flowers in the world. Then
there is a popular picnic/recreation area at the impressive
Mewah waterfall. For history buffs: it was in Tambunan where
Mat Salleh had his final
hideout, and where he was finally vanquished by the English. The
small Mat Salleh Memorial a couple of kilometers
outside town marks the spot of his fort, which was razed to the
ground after his defeat. Then there is of course
Trus Madi,
with 2642 m Malaysia's second highest mountain. Intrepid travellers
can climb the jungle clad mountain - as there is no tourism
infrastructure and the mountain is located in a forest concession
rather than in a national park you are not likely to spot many
tourists. You are more likely to spot rare and endemic orchids,
pitcher plants and birds!
How to Get to Tambunan &
Accommodation
Bus, van, taxi - 80 km / 2 hours
(driving time); there is the Tambunan Village Resort Centre that
offers accommodation and homestay is another option.
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Rural Tambunan and traditional bamboo
house
The Mat Salleh Memorial
Tambunan
is famous for "Siopon", rice wine enjoyed right from the jar,
through a bamboo straw |
